The Dairy Dilemma

Soy, almond, oat or dairy–which milk should you be drinking?

As the air pollution in Delhi remains unabated, I continue to think of how our eating habits could help address the issue. I have already written about the merits of growing millets. This week, I decided to write on the subject of milk, only to realise (almost serendipitously!) that 26th November is celebrated as National Milk Day to commemorate India’s White Revolution. Thanks to the revolution ushered in by Dr Verghese Kurien, India is the world’s largest producer of dairy milk. Not surprisingly, milk remains an integral part of the Indian diet.

In recent years, however, there have been many pertinent questions raised about the consumption of dairy milk. Primarily, these have to do with the growing incidence of lactose intolerance and the environmental impact of dairy farms. At the same time, as veganism becomes increasingly popular around the world, there’s a flurry of plant milks (almond, soy, oat, rice, cashew, etc.) on the market. With so many options to choose from, which type of milk should we really be drinking?

The Lowdown on Plant Milks
Understanding the nutritional profile of the different types of milk available today is a good place to start. For instance, it is commonly believed that almond milk is a great source of protein. On the contrary, almond milk has the least amount of protein even among the plant sources. Every type of plant based milk has a unique nutritional character, and the choice of milk should be based on the individual’s health requirements.

Many people who have trouble digesting lactose (a sugar found in dairy milk) are asked to switch to plant milk. Soy milk is a readily available alternative to dairy milk–it’s lactose-free, offers just as much protein as dairy, and also has a significant potassium content (this mineral can lower blood pressure and has many other health benefits). Oat milk is another good alternative to dairy. For one, it is one of the better tasting options among the plant milks. It is rich in beta glucan, a beneficial carbohydrate with many health benefits.

Essentially, the things to factor in when choosing an alternative to dairy are nutritional profile, environmental impact, taste/flavour and price point.

Plant Milks for the Planet
To understand the environmental impact of plant milks, it’s important to first understand the preparation process. For the purpose of this piece, I talk about soy, oat and almond milk. To start with, the soybean / almonds / oats are soaked in water. Once the excess water is drained away, the product is rinsed and milled into a thick paste. The paste is then dried and made into a flour, which is then fortified with vitamins and minerals (to meet nutritional requirements). This is then diluted with water to prepare a milk-like beverage.

One of the biggest advantages of plant milk is the huge savings made on the resources during the production process.

It takes 120 litres of water to produce one glass of dairy milk. Keep in mind that the water requirement is for the cow and to grow the food that the cow eats. Compare that with one glass of almond milk, which only requires about 70 litres of water for production. This is to water the almond plant for years until it flowers and bears fruit (seed). Almond milk requires the most amount of water for production among all the plant milks. Compare with soy and oat milks, which need a mere 5-10 litres to produce one glass.

Let’s then compare the land resources required to produce the different types of milk. Dairy milk has the highest requirement of 4 square kilometers of land–the cows need the land to live on and for their fodder to grow on. Much of this land is made available only after rampant deforestation and the consistent destruction of the natural habitat of hundreds of other species. In comparison, the land requirement for all plant-based milks is much less. The plant is grown and used for milk production directly without first feeding it to the animal producing the milk. Among the plant milks, soy plantations are the least desirable because of the nature of deforestation required.

Speaking of the greenhouse gas emissions, a glass of dairy milk releases about 0.5 kg (this includes the methane gas released by cows as part of the digestive process). In comparison, a glass of oat and soy milk produce only 0.1 to 0.2 kg of greenhouse gases.

The Upside of Dairy Milk
Despite the virtues of plant milks, I don’t wish to run down dairy milk. Dairy milk has many benefits. For a country that’s alarmingly deficient in protein, dairy milk is one of the best sources of the nutrient (8 g protein in 250 ml dairy milk). Most plant-based milks are no match for this (soy is the only exception, but it is pricier than dairy).

You can read my other pieces on protein deficiency here and here.

The calcium and Vitamin D in dairy milk is far superior. A staggeringly high number of Indians are deficient in Vitamin D. There’s no doubt that dairy milk is a very nutritious food.

For anyone who does not have access to a wide and varied diet, the regular consumption of dairy milk makes a lot of sense. You could also choose to consume dairy in forms other than milk, like cheese or yogurt. These forms of dairy are comparatively easier on the digestive system.

The Verdict
Those of us who can afford (nutritionally and otherwise) to substitute dairy, at least partly, should do so for the sake of our planet.

I hope that more kinds of plant-based milks become available easily at lower costs. Recently, I came across some reports of milk being produced in the lab by microbes. If successful, this may very well create an excellent alternative to fulfil our nutritional requirements without compromising the health of our planet.