Payal Singhal let nostalgia sweep over when designing her latest collection. She turned to her childhood memories and family albums to create ‘Suroor’, where the defining aesthetic is old-world charm. Think antiquated. Think evocative. Think reminiscent of an era gone by. The designer reminisced about accompanying her mother during trips to the local market, scouring the stores for Indian wear, in the early ’80s. This ‘old city bazaar’ vibe served as the starting point for the collection. ‘Suroor’ is meant to evoke the elegance of an era gone by, sweep you away to a world of sepia-toned nostalgia; and remind you of the days spent in your grandmother’s dressing room, rummaging through her trunks to find that every ensemble had a story attached to it. Singhal built on this vintage narrative by referencing Rehmani lehengas from the ’70s and ’80s; old-school Arabic, Rajasthan and Lucknowi patterns; and even yesteryear Bollywood costumes. The result is sentimental, quaint yet equally charming and relevant.
The collection stays true to the brand’s DNA of deconstructing and reimagining traditional Indian silhouettes for the modern aesthete. You will find hybrid lehenga with cut-outs, sharara sets, kaftan kurtas and anarkalis; all enhanced with intricate mukaish, zardozi, gota, nakshi, pitta and mirror work. Statement yokes, the latest take on the House’s signature back-tie choli, and a new burst of #PSPrints are also an integral part of the collection. For the first time, Payal has worked with bandhanis developed in Jaipur, but with her inimitable twist — using the technique on tussar instead of silks. The menswear is more intricate this season — sherwanis and bandis with embroidered jaals in jewel tones alongside sorbet shades. After playing with brighter hues this past year, Singhal has returned to her original colour palette that is dipped in monochrome, almost-sombre hues. Expect stone, grey and ecru softly intertwined with pale blue, old rose and mellow pastels. Overt sensuality isn’t the raison d’etre of this collection. Instead, there is a delicacy, a nazakat, to the demeanour of every fall, cut and drape, that makes it appealing.
It’s about beauty in simplicity, meaning over flash, and less over more. These are the kind of bridal ensembles that will become a vital part of your story, of your big day… the kind whose tales you will want to narrate when sitting with your brood… just like your grandmother did with you. “At a time that has been rife with bleakness, I sought inspiration in the beauty of the past to find hope for the future. We are on that threshold where we want to return to normalcy, but there is no denying that we have changed. We have become more mindful and aware, and I wanted to bring a sense of that to this line.
‘Suroor’ means joy and exhilaration — which are not just the emotions we hope this collection will evoke in you, but also our wishes for the new world,” says Payal.
